Puerto rico culebra: 25 Things to Do + Best Beaches & How to Get There

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February 22, 2023
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Culebra vs. Vieques: which Puerto Rican island is best to visit?

Separated from mainland Puerto Rico by an 8-mile stretch of choppy blue water, the two jewel-like Caribbean havens of Culebra and Vieques have an irresistible charm and laid-back beach vibe.

Disembark for a few days and you’ll uncover a wealth of surprises – horses roaming free in Vieques, endangered turtles in Culebra – and people who reclaimed their prized islands from the US Navy in 1975 (Culebra) and 2003 (Vieques) after more than 50 years of military occupation.

But it’s the beaches that will have visitors to Culebra and Vieques purring with delight. Between them, the two members of the Spanish Virgin Islands have some of the most dazzling beaches in the Caribbean – best of all, many of them are deserted. Culebra and Vieques have yet to attract mass tourism, so there isn’t a golf course, casino or humongous resort in sight.

Which island is best to visit on your trip to Puerto Rico? Here’s a quick guide to Culebra and Vieques to help you decide.

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Introducing Puerto Rico

Best things to do in Culebra

Long feted for its diamond-dust beaches and world-class diving reefs, sleepy Culebra is probably more famous for what it doesn’t have than for what it actually possesses. There are no big hotels here, no golf courses, no casinos, no fast-food chains, no rush-hour traffic and, best of all, no stress.

Situated 17 miles off mainland Puerto Rico, but inhabiting an entirely different planet culturally speaking, the island’s slow pace can sometimes take a bit of getting used to. It’s home to rat-race dropouts, earnest idealists, solitude seekers, myriad eccentrics and anyone else who’s forsaken the hassle and hustle of modern life. It’s also home to a range of gorgeous natural areas, bays, snorkeling sites, hiking trails and all manner of fine beaches.

The white sands of Flamenco Beach on Culebra island, Puerto Rico © Cdwheatley / Getty Images

Culebra’s best beaches

Culebra’s beaches offer wild natural beauty. Tourist facilities vary, with plenty at Playa Flamenco and blissfully few at Playa Zoni. Several beaches are only accessible by hiking in, increasing the possibilities of having a Caribbean beach to yourself, at least for a few hours. Playa Carlos Rosario and Playa Tamarindo are great for snorkeling. Isla Culebrita and Cayo Norte are two of the more popular cays off Culebra and are easily visited by water taxi.

Top 12 beaches in Puerto Rico

Some of Culebra’s beaches are nesting sites for endangered sea turtles © Brandon Rosenblum / Getty Images

Turtle watching

Two of Culebra’s most isolated beaches – Resaca and Brava – are nesting sites for the endangered leatherback sea turtle, the world’s largest living sea turtle (adults can reach 6.5 feet in length and weigh 1500 pounds). The nesting season runs from April through early June. Each year, a few volunteers are accepted by the Department of Natural and Environmental Resources to monitor the delicate egg-laying process. Volunteers travel out to the beaches, where they count eggs, measure turtles and document the event for environmental records. The smaller hawksbill sea turtle (up to 3ft long and 250 pounds) also lays eggs on Culebra’s beaches.

Diving and snorkeling sites abound in Culebra © Norbert Figueroa / EyeEm / Getty Images

Diving and snorkeling

Despite reef damage from the US Navy testing era and endemic climate change pressures, Culebra retains some of Puerto Rico’s most amazing dive spots, including sunken ships, coral reefs, drop-offs and caves. Highlights include the Wit Power tugboat (which sank in 1984), the Geniqui Caves, El Mono boulders and the fish-filled water world of Cayo Ratón.

Good snorkeling sites can also be accessed from many beaches. Tamarindo is a good example of the bounty on offer: it teems with a spectacular variety of fish and features a 50ft wall of coral, all protected by the Luis Peña Channel Natural Reserve. Other good spots include Playa Carlos Rosario and Playa Melones.

Culebra National Wildlife Refuge

More than 20% of Culebra is part of a spectacular national wildlife refuge, which was signed into law more than 100 years ago. Most of it lies along the coastline, including more than 20 cays. Home to three different ecosystems, the refuge is a habitat for endangered sea turtles and the largest seabird nesting grounds in the Caribbean. For visitors, it’s a place for hiking, birdwatching and secluded beaches.

Culebra has plenty of places to stay all around the island © shakzu / Getty Images

Where to stay in Culebra

Several guesthouses are a short walk from the Culebra’s ferry dock, though there are many options island-wide. Some even have docks for boats. Culebra has an excellent selection of rental apartments and houses of all shapes and sizes dotted around the island, including many Airbnb and HomeAway properties.

Where to eat in Culebra

For a small island, there are plenty of choices when it comes to eating. Seafood figures prominently, much of it sourced from the fishing boats bobbing in the bay. Not surprisingly, most of Culebra’s restaurants are in the tiny town of Dewey. Beyond town, keep your eyes out for food trucks, which offer cheap, tasty eats perfect for beach picnics.

Sunset over the water in Vieques, Puerto Rico © stan zhou / 500px

Best things to do in Vieques

Measuring just 21 miles long by 5 miles wide, Vieques is renowned for its gorgeous beaches, semi-wild horses and sparkling bioluminescent bay. It’s substantially larger than Culebra, and while it’s still a world away from the bright lights of the mainland, the larger population here means more accommodations, swankier restaurants and generally more buzz.

Since the official withdrawal of the US Navy in 2003, Vieques has regularly been touted as the Caribbean’s next “big thing,” with pristine beaches and a coastline ripe for the developer’s bulldozer. Fortunately, environmental authorities swept in quickly after the handover and promptly declared all the former military land (70% of the island’s total area) a US Fish and Wildlife Refuge. This has meant that the bulk of the island remains virgin territory. Development elsewhere has been slow and low-key. Understandably, Vieques’ residents – many of whom are continental US expats – are fiercely protective of their Caribbean nirvana.

The horses of Vieques enjoy time on the beach © Bailey Freeman / Lonely Planet

Best beaches in Vieques

Now protected in the national wildlife refuge, many of Vieques’ beaches are clean, untrammeled and paradisiacal. Calm and clear, Playa Caracas is reached on a paved road and has gazebos with picnic tables to shade bathers from the sun.

There’s excellent snorkeling – lots of healthy sea fans and underwater life – off the eastern side of the beach. A favorite with locals, the gorgeous Playa La Chiva is long and open with occasionally rough surf. It’s easy to find your own large patch of sand, and you can find shade in the shrubs. There’s good snorkeling toward the eastern side of the beach, just off a small island.

Secluded Playa La Plata is as far east as you can go. It’s spread across a mushroom-shaped bay with icing-sugar sand and a calm sea that shimmers with a thousand different shades of blue. The snorkeling is good toward the western side of the beach. The road here is very rough; only a 4WD will get you close without walking. The deliciously deserted Playa Escondida has absolutely no facilities, just jaw-dropping beauty.

The beautiful coastline of Vieques National Wildlife Refuge © John and Tina Reid / Getty Images

Vieques National Wildlife Refuge

Lying within the protected confines of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge are some of the best reasons to visit Vieques. The refuge, once land used by the US military, protects vast tracts of largely pristine land containing four different ecological habitats: beaches, coastal lagoons, mangrove wetlands and forested uplands. It also includes an important marine environment of seagrasses and coral reefs.

Many colorful species survive in these areas, including the brown pelican and the endangered West Indian manatee. Vieques’ dwarfish thicket-strewn forest, which includes some indigenous cacti, provides one of the best examples of dry subtropical forest in the Caribbean.

Perhaps the finest Giant Ceiba Tree in Puerto Rico is situated on the right-hand side of the road as you head toward Punta Arenas, adjacent to the Mosquito Pier, a popular snorkeling site. Rumored to be 400 years old, it has become a symbol of the island’s resilience.

Bahía Mosquito (Bioluminescent Bay)

Locals claim that the magnificent Bahía Mosquito has the highest concentration of phosphorescent dinoflagellates not only in Puerto Rico, but in the world. A trip through the lagoon – take a tour – is nothing short of psychedelic, with the movement of your kayak, paddle, electric boat, even fish, whipping up fluorescent-blue sparkles below the surface. Reservations for tours are essential in high season; the best time to go is at new moon.

On the water in Vieques, Puerto Rico © Elliot Knowles / EyeEm / Getty Images

Where to stay in Vieques

Vieques has plenty of accommodation options for travelers. In Esperanza, boutique hotels and guesthouses line oceanfront Calle Flamboyan, while others are scattered among the surrounding hills. Most accommodations in Isabel Segunda are easily reached on foot from the ferry. Further afield, you’ll find some of Puerto Rico’s most interesting small, luxurious hotels, or you can stay on the beach if you’re up for camping.

Where to eat in Vieques

Good food in a variety of cuisines and price ranges can be found across the island, and unsurprisingly seafood figures prominently. In Esperanza, most cafes are on Calle Flamboyan with enviable views over the turquoise water to Cayo de Tierra. Isabel Segunda’s restaurants dot the town and have the best selection of Caribbean cuisine.

When to visit Culebra and Vieques

The spring shoulder season (April through June) brings picture-perfect weather and fewer travelers. There aren’t many discounts on lodgings, but you’ll have less company on the beach; some days, it might just be you and the birds.
The best viewing of the bioluminescent bay in Vieques is during the new moon. Some operators don’t go out when the moon is full. From April through June, wildlife fans can volunteer for a turtle-egg protection project on Culebra.
The famous Caribbean trade winds gently buffet these two islands, but the weather is warm and balmy just about every day of the year.

When is the best time to visit Puerto Rico?

How to get to Culebra and Vieques

There’s frequent air service to both islands from San Juan. Much cheaper are the regular public ferries between Ceiba and the islands. In January, ferry passengers can sometimes spot humpback whales.

You might also like:
How sustainable tourism is thriving in Puerto Rico
East End Puerto Rico, the perfect San Juan alternative
Puerto Rico’s first ever glamping site lies beside beaches and nature reserves

This article was originally published in November 2011 and updated in August 2021.

Explore Culebra Island, Culebra, Puerto Rico

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Culebra, Puerto Rico

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Top beaches in the world. Snorkeling with turtles, sting rays and coral reefs. Beautiful hidden Caribbean paradise. Stay as long as you’d like!

At Flamenco Beach, which is always ranked among the top 5 beaches in the world, the water is incredibly blue, and the sand is white and soft. The contrast of colors with the green island behind it is indescribably beautiful. Flamenco is usually pretty busy with people because it’s so popular, and there are a couple places to eat close by.

Just to southwest of Flamenco, you can take a road out to Tamarindo Beach, where you can swim and snorkel with turtles, sting rays, and all kinds of fish. There is also a beautiful coral reef right there. You can rent snorkeling gear for around $10 on site, but you can also bring your own.

If you have a rented Jeep (see below) you can explore the whole island and head over to Zoni Beach, which has a lot less people and is still extremely beautiful. They will give you a map of the island that will help you find more places to explore!

Whether you’re there for a day or a week, this beautiful island paradise will treat you so well, and you’ll be able to relax like never before. Have fun exploring!

Getting there: The island of Culebra is just east of Puerto Rico, and it takes about an hour and a half on a ferry to get there. You can also fly out of the airport, it’s just not nearly as cheap as the ferry. The ferry takes off from Fajardo, Puerto Rico, which is about an hour and a half east of San Juan. A roundtrip ticket costs $4 and must be purchased in Fajardo. Tickets run out fast during busy seasons, so make sure to get there as early as you can – the booth opens at 7. The Fajardo Ferry Terminal is located at PR-195, Fajardo, 00738, Puerto Rico.

Once on the island you can take a shuttle bus out to Flamenco Beach. You can also rent a Jeep for the day to explore the entire island – it costs a little bit more than the shuttle but is well worth it! There are lots of people offering Jeep rentals on the island, so that won’t be difficult to find.

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We came during Covid times. Ferry tickets were to be purchased online ahead of time. We did, but for some reason those were returned to us 2 days prior to our visit. We thought we could get tickets at the ferry but they are limited capacity and reserved for residents. We ended up driving to the nearby airport and bought tickets for 45 per person one way. Best experience ever, 15 min flight. Most beautiful views from above. Flamenco beach was amazing. Slept and relaxed. A must visit if coming to Puerto Rico.

5.0

A group of 22 of us arrived at 4am in Fajardo, PR to get tickets for the ferry to Culebra. Long story short, only 5 of us made it to the island. Camped out on Flamenco beach. Definitely the best thing we did our whole trip! Highly recommended!

5.0

Lara Paul

Explore Culebra Island

04/21/16

This island was so beautiful!
We walked across the island in a few hours, it’s that small, and slept on the beach. The sunrise was the perfect thing to wake up to.
When we arrived on the island though, there were not many places for food or drink open. One place actually had a sign that said “We’re open when we’re open and closed if we’re not”. Talk about island time!
If you’re visiting PR, it’s definitely worth planning a day or two to visit Culebra.

5.0

While flamenco is the main draw for most people visiting the island Zoni, Tamarindo, and the Carlos Rosario snorkeling preserve are equally amazing and usually much less crowded. (We had Carlos Rosario to ourselves). If you are looking for a cheap place to stay and don’t plan to hang out in your room all day check out the Hotel Kokomo. Its right across the street from the ferry dock. Not super clean but makes a great base camp to explore from.

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Nearby

Snorkel at Tamarindo Beach

Navigating to Tamarindo Beach is a simple left off 251 before you get to Flamenco Beach and has a small parking area with a kayak ramp. Usually you can find one or two local businesses offering kayak, mask, fins, and vest rentals here. A publico, or private taxi/van, can give you a ride here for a few dollars if you are not renting a vehicle.Snorkelers can enter the water just to the left of th…

Camp at Flamenco Beach

If camping on a postcard perfect tropical island is on your bucket list, Flamenco Beach is a must. Take the ferry from the port in Fajardo (40 min drive from San Juan Airport) to Culebra Island. The cost is $2.25 each way and takes about one hour. The ferries depart at 9:00 am, 3:00 pm, and 5:00 pm daily. Make sure you purchase your tickets in advance as they book up quickly (priority goes …

Camp at Sun Bay Beach

Vieques Island is a pleasant one hour ferry ride from Fajardo, Puerto Rico (and budget friendly at only $4 round trip!) Upon arrival at the ferry port in Vieques, hop on one of the waiting cabs and ask for a ride to Sun Bay ($3 per person). You can also arrange for the same cab driver to pick you up at a set date/time ($5 per person for return trip).At Sun Bay Beach, check in at the office ($…

Explore Playa la Pared

Wake up early for the sunrise on the beach and you won’t regret it! Unless of course you hate beautiful sunrises… Parking is easy with a public parking lot right next to the beach entrance, you can’t miss it!After you finish enjoying the view, start walking to the right and you will encounter what feels like a whole other world. There are no buildings along this side and it is full of palm …

Snorkel at Sapphire Beach

Sapphire beach is a white sandy beach on the north east side of St. Thomas. Sea grape trees surround the beach and provide lots of shade. There are many ducks that frequent this beach.
This is a great beach for snorkeling as there are shallow reefs on the right side of the beach. You can also windsurf, jet ski, and parasail in the marina nearby.

Explore Juan Diego Falls

Juan Diego Falls are a pair of waterfalls that can be accessed by an incredibly short and ignored trail when passing through El Yunque.When driving up the mountain (heading southwest on 191) the trail entrance can be found behind a road barrier on the right hand side of the road at approximately KM 9.8. This is at a corner between Yokahú Tower and Big Tree Trail’s parking areas. There are ma…

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